Maset

Melody Adams has form. Her Basque restaurants Lurra and Donostia have been Marylebone mainstays for over a decade, so when she turned her attention to southern France for her third opening, expectations were high — and Maset more than delivers. The name refers to the small stone vineyard houses of the Occitan region, and it’s that spirit that runs through everything here. The menu draws on the southern French coastline but stretches its influences to Italy, Spain, and North Africa, with dishes like bouillabaisse croquettes, seabass crudo with yuzu and fennel, and an ex-dairy côte de boeuf that already has people talking. The room, designed by Parisian studio Haddou-Dufourcq, offers pale herringbone floors, whitewashed walls, and soft banquette seating— a considered calm on one of London’s most fashionable streets. Open from breakfast through late, it’s the kind of all-day neighbourhood restaurant Chiltern Street has been waiting for.